Copenhagen Fashion Week SS21 during the Digital times.
In the era of digital Fashion Weeks, the Scandinavian fashion capital decided to carry on with their most exciting event, but adapt it to the current regulations and keep the safety of the guests paramount.
“We strongly believe in the importance of being able to meet face to face. Fashion week is inherently a physical event, which is why we [want] to gather industry professionals at our new hub and to create a fashion week that can help the industry to move ahead.”
I couldn’t agree more with the CEO of CPHFW, Cecilie Thorsmark, I think that digital fashion weeks can’t offer us the full experience of this magical event and the hybrid concept of CPHFW was a great solution.
To offer journalists and influencers the opportunity to participate in the hybrid fashion week, they offered different experiences: physical and digital fashion shows, talks, personal appointments at the showrooms, fashion café and a fashion picnic. Guest lists to all events were limited and there were also viewings by appointment. While there was no requirement to wear masks in Copenhagen, hand sanitisers were given to us at each venue and social distancing was in place. This year not many international influencers could come due to the current global situation, but street style outside of the shows was still fabulous. Local it girls presented the most fabulous looks with the Scandi aesthetic and I loved how effortless their looks were. It was also very common to arrive at the venue on a bicycle, or even bring children along. For me, CPHFW had a very unique atmosphere and it was a perfect canvas to present sustainable designs, brands and solutions.
Here are some of the insights from CPHFW with the highlight of responsible fashion.
I. Ganni during Copenhagen Fashion Week
One of the most liked Scandi fashion houses, opted for an art exhibition and a pop-up kiosk instead of the traditional runway. It was a very impressive installation to which the brand invited 7 artists from different fields: writers, photographers and filmmakers, who created a context for the Ganni collection.
“This year feels like a decade in itself. It’s been a roller coaster, but despite everything we are still motivated by the new roads ahead and what we have learned so far. Doing what we do best, we have surrounded ourselves with amazing talent from near and far, growing new friendships and collaborations.” said Ditte Reffstrup, creative director of Ganni.
Collection created during the global pandemic is slightly different than usual, there is a new collaboration formed between Ganni and Levi’s called Love Letters. It is a completely upcycled capsule collection, that will be available for rental only. It’s a great solution toward sustainability, especially since denim production negatively impacts the environment.
Ganni is their new collection are focusing on organic materials more than before. Their signature elements are still strong in the SS21 collection, like voluminous sleeves, feminine dresses and large lapels, which are my favourite elements in Ganni’s designs.
II. Baum und Pferdgarten
“As designers, there is nothing we love more than doing a runway show – bringing it home to our own showroom makes it very personal and real. We have actually never been as excited to show a collection as we were this time – it was intimate, intense and also very nerve-wracking for both of us.” Said creative directors of Baum und Pferdgarten, Rikke Baumgarten & Helle Hestehave. It was a fashion show different from runways before, very limited list of guests, few photographers and a lot of safety procedures, but it was beautiful and intimate. There was this fresh Scandi atmosphere about it… Even the afterparty was different from the ones I am used to, we were offered Prosecco and pizza in the beautiful courtyard of rococo styled showroom and HQ of Baum und Pferdgarten. I could mingle in the crowd with some of Copenhagen’s fashion darlings and enjoy the unique atmosphere of this great event.
SS21 collection “THE WOMAN WHO FELL TO EARTH” is inspired by the movie with David Bowie “The man who fell to earth” and is the most versatile collection of this Danish label so far. The brand focused a lot on using new fabrics, for example, patent faux leather, shiny nylons, and new polyester or viscose. The Colour palette is mixed between neutral earth colours: like sand, brown, stone, and white and contrast colours: bright yellow, rose and violet, in order to create more dynamism. Cosmic inspiration is visible in the prints, there are planetary elements, but also black and white floral collages.
I have been told that their new SS21 collection created during the pandemic, has fewer pieces than usual and 50% of their collection had been sourced from the responsible fibres. Customers will be able to choose easily responsible pieces as they will have special tags on them. This is so transparent and allows customers to know what they are purchasing.
III. Designers Remix
Designers Remix is a pioneer when it comes to sustainable fashion since the beginning of the brand in 2002. They have been using high-tech, biodegradable fabrics and upcycling even before the sustainability concept was born. Charlotte Eskilden, the brand creator aims to create timeless pieces that women can wear for decades and are therefore able to minimize the mass production of clothes. Due to the use of fabrics, her designs are of better quality and have their signature, strong silhouette. Those typical brand silhouettes were the starting point for a completely new SS21 collection. A dress made of a couch or a tent? Why not. Designer Remix definitely surprised all spectators of their fashion show during CPHFW.
On each design, there was a slogan speaking about the former use of the fabric, e.g. “I used to be a certain” or “I used to be a couch”. It shows the new life of items, focusing on no waste practices and a circular economy.
They presented one-of-a-kind styles, featuring maximising volumes (that was a huge trend during this CPHFW). The Colour palette was very earthy: beige, brown, white and black.
This fashion show carried a strong message and made us think about the challenges that fashion is facing.
IV. MALAIKARAISS SS21
MalaikaRaiss opted for a pop-up showroom where in a cute little café, we could see her beautiful collection and meet the founder and designer herself. The brand was founded in 2010 in Berlin, but all materials are sourced and manufactured in different places in Europe. Most materials are plant-dyed and they use only organic cotton and recycled silk and cashmere.
She deeply believes in the women’s movement and only women are working for Malaika. Her ready-to-wear SS21 collection and accessories are ultra-feminine, with blush pink colour, creme, white and beige. I find her collection very delicate and sophisticated in its simplicity.
Custommade has presented during Copenhagen Fashion Week SS21 the most beautiful, feminine and très chic collection that I have seen so far from this brand. Brand identity is a combination of French classy style with playful Italian style, perfect for cosmopolitanism women, with a great sense of style and self-confidence. Every design has a dreamy feel and is a masterpiece by itself. Custommade produces a limited edition of pieces with the use of luxurious fabrics to add more sophistication to the designs.
For the SS21 campaign brand decided to create a video in collaboration with Femmes Régionales, a Danish famous design studio. They created a romantic, mellow atmosphere with Parisian connotations and dolce far niente. This video was a great canvas to present modern, colourful and unique pieces. Their trademark bedazzled stilettos in different shapes are art pieces by themselves. Chanel-inspired tweed jackets, embellished lapels, colourful suits, lace tops and skirts were eye candy for all viewers.
Custommade’s SS21 collection focused on volumes, craft and cuts. All collection gives us this rich feeling and brings to mind Marie Antoinette, I am sure that if she would live these days she would definitely wear Custommade designs.
“Creativity is key,” remarked the brand in its show notes. I do find a lot of inspiration in their collection, so elegant, charming, romantic, and feminine, where all details matter, and where women can dress with pleasure and joy. Maximalism, colours, and joy radiating from clothes are something that we need in these challenging times and Custommade has created a collection that will give us all of this.
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As always with love
Bella Zofia xx
Your Fashion, Beauty and Travel Blogger from Geneva