This MFW has been both wonderful and then gloomy towards the end. Many people started to leave early as fashion shows were cancelled or performed behind the closed door. The Camera della Moda Italiana set up a special “China we are with you” campaign. 29 shows were broadcasted on Tencent and more than 16 million Chinese users watched them. I did feel that this fashion week was different than others, places and streets were not so crowded, even though I enjoyed this short fashion week and I will describe some of the highlights from the fashion shows and presentations that I have visited.
1. Philipp Plein
It was the most spectacular fashion show that I have seen during this fashion week.
As always with PP his fashion show was a real show, with fast cars, plain and helicopter at stage and many celebrities as models. The show was opened by actress Jada Pinkett Smith and followed by stars like Alec Monopoly, Olivia Culpo among many. However speaking about the collection, I was impressed with colorful looks, beautiful evening dresses, animal prints and accessories. Last models in the collection was Lakers inspired looks and a tribute to Kobe Bryant, who died in tragic plain accident with his daughter. Sales from Lakers collection will support the athlete’s Mamba & Mambacita Sports Foundation.
It is always a pleasure to see ES fashion show and his wonderful collection. His collections are a perfect example of top-Italian craftsmanship. FW 20/21 collection is very romantic, yet combining femininity and masculinity, there are delicate elements, laces combined with classic and heavy cuts. There was a lot of leather pieces, his signature suits and animal prints.
When I arrived to the venue I spotted a lot police cars and carabinieri, as there was an accident just outside the show. Apparently the car hit an infulencer, very strange situation and I hope that this person is in good health right now. Regarding the fashion show I must say that I really love Iceberg collections sine James Long became creative director. This collection has this London street style look, but also there was ski-wear and lots sweats, but also bright pink skirt and coat that I loved.
4. Emerging Designers
On 22nd of February I had a chance to see Emerging Talents Milan collective fashion show. Like in September venue for this highly desired Milan Fashion Week event was historical Palazzo Visconti di Modrone. ETM chose to present us work of 5 designers with different background and heritage and created beautiful show where elegance, internal beauty and originality was in focus. In order to be part of these shows organizers pay attention to crafts, traditions and embroidery of brands.
I. Stefan Djokovich
II. Diana Caramaci
III. Urban Kimono
During this MFW I had an opportunity to speak with Women’s creative director Paolo Zuntini about the FW 20/21 collection.
FW collection brings some freshness to Eleventy, as it’s a first collection that is result of collaboration with a new creative, Cristina Ortiz. The main pillars of Eleventy style are kept, but there are some new elements added, like for example new colors palette. They added some pastel pink, apricot, dust and petroleum blue, and what is new to Eleventy is a black capsule collection, that is very classy and sophisticated. When I saw FW collection for the first time I had these 70’s vibes, but there is much more to it. This collection combines: art-deco, architectural shapes, classical line, but also modernism. It’s a beautiful harmony about past and future, mixing feminine and masculine energy, clear lines, elegance and quality above all.
6. Collini Milano 1936
On 21st of February I visited presentation of Collini Milano 1937 at beautiful Palazzo Bagatti Valsecchi Museum, which is a historic house museum in the Montenapoleone district of Milan. Collini Milano 1937 collection that we were able to see was magical, surreal and rock ‘n’ roll. We could see power suits, strapless dresses, fabulous shoes and handbags collection. Animal prints and metallic accents, ancient symbolism on the fabrics, gothic inspirations and what I loved a lot… fur as an accent in different clothing. Creative director and CEO of the brand, Carmine Rotondaro bought Collini brand 2 years ago. However this fashion house was already established in 1937 as a furrier. During the presentation I found out that they have 100% no-kill policy and use only upcycled furs and add them to the pieces.
7. Cristiano Burani
It was a late evening fashion show on my birthday and I wasn’t so sure if I should attend it, but it turned well. I liked the collection and ambiance. Cristiano’s Burani Fall Winter collection is called: #DISCOCLOCHARD and it celebrates the new and intimate richness, and the expression of one-self.